GRUMPY SISTERS' INK

A cool sun reflects itself in the windows of the apartment opposite. The air is chill, the voices from the street muted through the shutters. Our first full day in Madrid, and breakfast calls. We wander off to see what gives. Thenpolicemand army at out early too, the restaurant owners are unstacking their chairs, the footpaths have been washed and the cleaners are removing the nights debris from around the trees. Along the street, Calle Mayor, the butters ate till down on most of the stores. The lights of the bakery are warm, the smell of coffee tantalising. We are greeted effusively by the white shifted, black tied waiter. The whole of the counter is awash with croissants, cakes, pastries in a mouthwatering array. The service was quick and forgiving of our limited Spanish. The coffee was strong and good. The yoghurt and fruit were in a little pot with a lid, and the croissants warm. What a way to start the day! We had decided to take the city tour, and went across the square to the little kiosk. I explained that two of us were mucho mucho old, and needed the senior discount. The plaza was filling up fast. We were stopped from crossing the rod by the guards. They were letting though the dignitaries for the official event and funnily enough we weren't one of them.